Aloe and Oat Cold Process Soap

Creamy Aloe and Oat Soap – an unscented aloe vera cold processed soap that’s simple to make! A creamy and yet gentle soap for sensitive skin!

One of my favorite things to do is to make soap – cold process soap actually. It’s even better when I can use up what I’m growing in my yard to transform it into something that’s perfect and amazing for skin.

Such as.. this Aloe and Oat Soap.

I have a beautiful, ginormous aloe plant on the side of my yard that seems to get bigger each and every day. I can’t think of a better way to put it to good use than to create my own Aloe Vera and Oat soap – perfect for sensitive skin.

It’s super easy to make these lovely round bars… just pick up a few cans of Pringles and (eat or toss the chips) and use the mold. Circular soap here you come!

Aloe and Oat Cold Process Soap

Please use a scale to weigh the ingredients and ensure they are accurate.

LIQUID/LYE:

• 4.6 oz lye (sodium hydroxide)
• 10.63 oz aloe vera – or, part aloe and part distilled water

OILS AND FATS:

• 10 oz Olive Oil
• 9 oz Coconut Oil
• 12 oz Beef Tallow
• 2 oz Castor Oil

ADDITIONS:

• 1 Tbsp colloidal oats or oatmeal powder, added at trace

This recipe makes 45 oz – it fits in a round Pringles can or, $10 PVC pipe (cut in half and use an end cap!), or pour in this Crafter’s Choice, rectangle silicone mold.

Prepare all of your ingredients – and have everything set aside to start:

• Thermometer (one that you don’t use for food)
• 1 rectangular mold 
• Pyrex 8 cup measuring device – not required, but so handy to have!
• Immersion Blender – you don’t have to spend oodles but you will want something reliable with a metal stick, not plastic.
• Lye – this is the brand we use
• Digital Scale to measure your ingredients

Step 1:  Slowly add the lye to the liquid portion over a sink. Open up the windows behind the sink or place a fan behind you to dissipate the fumes. Make sure you are wearing safety goggles or gear, long sleeves and gloves. The mixture will get hot very quickly and the fumes will be strong until the mixture cools. 

Step 2: Set aside your lye + liquid mixture and allow to cool to 100-105 degrees F. In the meantime, prepare your oils by measuring them on the scale. Melt the tallow/coconut oil just until melted. Combine all of the oils in a large bowl and set them aside until you are ready to mix with the lye mixture. They should be at room temperature.

Step 3: Once you are ready to make your soap, add your lye + liquid to the oils/fats, and blend with a stick blender. Avoid running the stick blender for long periods. 10-15 second bursts with short breaks will be sufficient.

Step 4:  Carefully add the colloidal oats. Continue to blend in short intervals until the mixture reaches a trace (the mixture will start to thicken like pudding), 3-4 minutes (your time may vary slightly).

Pour the thickened soap batter into your soap mold and level off (for flat top soap) or, use a spoon to “peak” the top of the soap. Push to the rear of the counter top or place in a closet for 24-48 hours. 

Step 5:  After 24-48 hours, remove from the mold. If your soap is still too soft, set it in the freezer for 30 minutes and then try to remove from the mold. Bring to room temperature before using a soap cutter to cut into bars. Allow the soap to cure for 4-6 weeks before using.

Tip:  I love round soap! For many years, I used Pringles cans – they make wonderful soap molds – once the soap hardens, you can cut the top rim of the can and “peel” the can to remove the soap before slicing. However, if you make as much soap as frequently as I do, Pringles can get expensive! I have recently switched over to using plastic PVC for my soap molds. Home Depot and Lowe’s sell 3″ PVC in 24″ pieces for $10.63. Ask them to cut in half there at the store, then purchase the flat end cap (just $1 each) and cap the bottom. The key to using PVC is that you want the batter to be on the thicker side when you pour, to ensure that the batter doesn’t leak from the bottom. Once I pour, I place the PVC in a bowl (just for precaution!) and set in my garage for 24 hours. Once the soap is hardened in the PVC pipe, I bring the pipe in, and place the tube in the freezer for 12 hours. Once frozen, I pull from the freezer and bang the bottom (that’s capped) on the cement – the soap slides right out. Allow it to come to room temperature for 12-15 hours, then slice – allow 3-4 weeks to cure.

Looking to change out the oils? Make sure you use a lye calculator to re-run the recipe and ensure you have the correct amount of lye.

DON’T WANT TO MAKE THIS YOURSELF?

Shop my soap store for this and other handmade soaps just like this!